New Home Care Guide

Learn important tips and tricks for taking care of your new home, inside and out.

NEW HOME CARE GUIDE

A Helpful Guide to Caring for Your New Home

NEW HOME GUIDE INDEX BOOK 2

Getting Settled - S etting Up Utilities - When to Call - Smart Home - White Glove Service - Warranty Service Request Procedure

- Association ARC Guidelines

How to Care for Your New Home - Videos - Frequently Reported Concerns General Information - Doors - Exterior - Electrical - Countertop Care - Flooring - Flat Latex Paint - Humidity and Condensation - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors - Exterior Concrete - Landscaping - Sod

Preventative Maintenance Checklist

- Monthly and Seasonal To-Dos - Closing Your Home for Vacation

Warranty Information - Warranty Highlights - Non-Warrantable Items

GETTING SETTLED

PULTE WARRANTY SERVICE: 972-304-2805 or Customer.CareDFW@pultegroup.com

Smart Home Components - WHITE GLOVE SERVICE If at the time of your home purchase or design appointment, you selected the option to include the Smart Home Components in your home you will want to follow these steps. • First, you will need to make sure that you setup Internet service with the provider of your choice. And make sure that you have active Internet in your home. • Then, call the electrical vendor to setup your WHITE GLOVE SERVICE during which the electrical vendor will help you install and configure all your Smart Home Components.

Make sure you call to setup your WHITE GLOVE SERVICE within 90 days after your closing date .

Warranty Service Request Procedures

To service all our homeowners thoroughly and responsively, a warranty service request process is in place for your warranty needs. For service on items covered under the limited warranty, please follow the easy process listed below. Coverage timeframes are based on your home’s date of closing. Pulte’s Limited Warranty and Performance Standards can be found in its entirety at www.Pulte.com : 1-YEAR COVERAGE warrants the construction of the home will conform to the tolerances for materials and workmanship. 2-YEAR COVERAGE warrants the workability of the plumbing, electrical, heating, ventilating, air conditioning, and other mechanical systems. 5-YEAR COVERAGE warrants against various types of water infiltration and some internal leaks. 10-YEAR COVERAGE warrants the structural elements of the home. Structural elements are footings, bearing walls, beams, girders, trusses, rafters, bearing columns, lintels, posts, structural fasteners, subfloors and roof sheathing. HOW TO REACH PULTE FOR WARRANTY REQUESTS To ensure that you receive the best possible service, we are proud to offer Service on Demand so that you can submit a request in the way with which you are most comfortable. Customer Care Coordinators are available Monday - Friday, between the hours of 8:00 am and 5:00 pm to assist you. Contact the Customer Care Center By phone at 972-304-2805 By email at Customer.CareDFW@pulte.com Online by going to www.pulte.com. Click on "Service" in the top right corner of the screen and fill out the service request form completely.

Emergency Service AFTER Normal Business Hours

If an emergency arises between 5:00 pm and 8:00 a m Monday through Friday or on weekends or holidays, your request will be managed by our Emergency Response Team.

Call the Customer Care Center Emergency Response Team at 972-304-2805. Your call will be answered and managed appropriately.

Emergency After Hours Service is provided for limited items that could make your home inhabitable. These items include: No hot water to your entire home, major water leak/flood (burst pipe, etc.), loss of power to entire home (not related to weather conditions or outages), no heat or AC to entire home when external temperatures are below 45 or above 90.

Single Family Association ARC Guidelines

The following is a list of examples of changes that shall require an Architectural and Landscape Improvement Application be submitted to the Architectural Review Committee by the homeowner:

• Decks • Patios • Screen enclosures • Fences (depending on the Association, chain link fencing is not allowed) • Play sets • Swimming pools • Spas • Exterior color changes (i.e. Garage door painting, etc.) • Driveway surface changes

• Storage sheds • Retaining walls • Ponds/fountains • Sport courts (uncommon request, but a possibility) • Solar Panels

Your Sales Consultant can you give you contact information for your Homeowner's Association.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW HOME

HELPFUL HOW-TO VIDEOS

This guide will give you step-by-step details on all of your new home care needs in the pages to follow. But if you need a quick tip - here are some helpful videos on common topics of concern:

GARAGE DOORS: See video here

OUTLETS/BREAKER BOX: See video here

ELECTRICAL: See video here

HELPFUL HOW-TO VIDEOS

NAIL POPS: See video here

HVAC: See video here

HOSE BIB: See video here

LANDSCAPING: See video here

Frequently Reported Concerns Request for Caulking and Drywall Repairs

Pulte Homes offers a one-time drywall repair. This one-time repair is typically completed at the 11 month follow up appointment. Settlement and shrinkage cracks are normal to see during the first year as the home dries and settles. Waiting to have all caulking and drywall repairs made at the 11 month follow up appointment is in your best interest, as the home will continue to settle throughout the year. Cracks in Concrete It is very natural to see cracks occurring in concrete. Most concrete cracks are cosmetic in nature. Measures are taken during the construction process to help control cracking as concrete cures. Expansion joints are intentionally placed in some concrete surfaces to allow sections of concrete to expand and contract with changes in temperature, and control joints are intentionally placed in concrete to help control cracking. Performance standards are outlined in detail in the Home Care Guide. Please reach out to our Pulte Homes Customer Care Team in you have any questions or concerns regarding concrete cracking. Switched Outlets/GFCI Reset at Breaker Box The electric contractor can answer any questions you may have about the design of outlets and switches. There are requirements that dictate what type of outlets are installed within certain parameters in proximity to water. GFCI outlets are typically required in areas where it is possible for the outlet to come into contact with water (garage exterior outlets, kitchen and baths) and can easily be reset at the main circuit outlet should it trip . Please contact us if you have any question or concerns with your outlets and/or switches. The safety feature of these outlets require them to be reset occasionally. Ask your Customer Care Manager if you would like additional guidance on resetting y our breakers .

To learn more, see our video here!

Brand of Paint Used in Your Home

Pulte Homes uses Sherwin Williams brand paint. We use a flat finish for all of the interior walls. Additional paint can be purchased as Sherwin Williams. A touch up kit has been provided for small areas and possible future warranty items. If needed, our Customer Care Team can assist you with specific colors used in your home.

Fireplace

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Soils

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General Information ENGINEERED FOR LIFE

All consumers are looking for their “dream home”. Many times we find exactly what we are looking for. However, sometimes we may want to remove, adjust or redo what is already there. We at Pulte Homes want you to enjoy your home to its fullest. If alterations are made to your home, there may be conditions or warranties that are voided due to these actions as stated “changes alterations or additions made to the home by anyone other than Pulte, after the commencement date” (closing date) is an exclusion in your warranty . If structural alterations are considered, they must be performed by professionals who understand the load bearing requirements of the change. The reason that local municipalities require permits for building alterations is to make sure the structural integrity of the home is maintained. Additionally, proper maintenance must be maintained on a regular basis to prevent damage from occurring as well. “Negligence, improper maintenance or intentional or improper operation by anyone other than Pulte” is also an exclusion in your warranty . This can include, but not limited to, insect and termite preventative care, exterior checking for caulking cracking that can infiltrate your home, pest control and so on. All precautions to prevent these type problems are the responsibility of each individual homeowner, the same as any insurance policy with your insurance agency company. COLOR “MATCH” As it states in your warranty, every reasonable effort will be made to blend material colors (i.e.: paint, tile, stain, wood, sheet goods, carpet, trim, concrete, etc.). Due to such factors as aging, weathering or changes in the manufacturers dye lots, an exact color match cannot be guaranteed on any material. Dissatisfaction with the color blend will not warrant replacement or further repair.

DOORS, INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR All doors require minor adjustments from time to time, these can be handled with minimal effort: • Exterior door thresholds need checking and/or adjustin g with seasonal changes • Clockwise adjusts the threshold down and counter-clockwise brings it up.

• Do NOT adjust the threshold too high so as to cause the door sweep to tear. • Only use silicone spray for interior lubrication on doors, hinges and windows. • Bedroom or closet doors that seem to warp or do not close tightly are usually a result of changes in humidity. These conditions can change from one season to the next.

Clockwise Lowers Threshold Counter-Clockwise Raises Threshold

• Doors can be inspected and adjusted onc e as part of your 11-month inspection

GARAGE OVER-HEAD DOORS Doors should be lubricated every 4 to 6 months, or if the door becomes noisy, using white lithium grease or silicone spray. Spray all the hardware, tracks and rollers, then operate the door a couple times to work the lubricant in.

Sensors should be kept clean and clear, making a good connection with unobstructed view. Be careful of jarring sensors out of place while moving trash cans or lawn mowers

To learn more, see our video here!

Put Oil on Top ↗ the Spring

Put Oil INSIDE Roller, Not ON it ↗

Exterior VINYL SIDING

• Wash using a soft cloth or ordinary long handled soft bristle brush. For textured surfaces, use only a soft bristled brush to avoid smearing the stain into the grooves of the texture. • Always start at the bottom and work up to the top to prevent streaking. • For difficult dirt and stains, use readily available household cleaners that can be mixed with water, or a solution of vinegar and water; all mixed in proportions of 30% cleaner and 70%water. • Do NOT use any harsh or abrasive chemicals. • Do NOT use a hose or power-wash vinyl siding or windows as this may create a leak infiltration into your home. Due to the nature of vinyl siding, it is very important to keep all items that generate heat such as a grill, etc. 6’ or more away from vinyl materials as a melting affect will occur. This type of damage is not covered by your Limited Warranty. Vinyl is highly expansive which is why it can move and this is considered normal. Vinyl siding and vinyl windows come closer to being completely maintenance free more than any other exterior building product today. When cleaning is necessary, follow the suggestions listed below from Vinyl Siding Institute (VSI):

- CAUTION - Damage caused by neglect of any type is not warranted.

Electrical GFI (GROUND FAULT INTERRUPTER) OUTLETS Your home is equipped with GFI’s per the National Electrical Code which are located in bathrooms, exterior outlets, garage wall outlets, and any outlet within six (6) feet of the kitchen sink. If one or more of your kitchen outlets are a standard looking outlet and do not have a GFI, then it will be interconnected to a nearby GFI. If a GFI outlet should not work, check all GFI outlets to ensure the reset button is pushed in or reset.

OUTLET PHOTO

Red Light=Requires Reset No Light /Green=Operation

LIGHT FIXTURES

• Turn off power to any fixture before cleaning. • All metal surfaces (chrome, oil-rubbed bronze or brushed nickel) should be dusted regularly with a dry, soft cloth or duster. • Do not use cleansers as they may harm the finish, only use warm water and then dry. • For cleaning glass, do not spray cleansers directly on the fixture. • If the glass cannot be removed for cleaning, apply the cleaner to a soft rag as to not contaminate the fixture finish. • Your exterior metal fixtures have a special coating protecting them from UV, weathering, etc. Do not apply cleansers directly to these fixture finishes.

To learn more, see our video here!

- CAUTION - Tampering with the original wiring of your home may void your Limited Warranty.

AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) UNIT REPLACE WITH INFO ON CHANGING FILTERS AND CLEANING CONDENSATE LINE

To learn more, see our video here!

• FISSURES - The term “fissure” is used commercially in the stone industry to describe a visible separation along inter-crystalline boundaries. This separation may start and stop within the face of the stone or extend all the way through an edge. A fissure differs from a crack in that it is a naturally occurring feature of the stone and does not compromise the durability. ALL granites contain some degree of fissure, some contain more than others. Since fissures occur naturally in all granites, they are not considered a flaw or concern. • PITTINGS - Granites are made up of several different minerals, each mineral having a different hardness. The softer, flakier minerals in stone can be removed during the polishing process, which then creates pitting. It is a commonly seen characteristic in all natural stone and will not compromise the quality or make your stone less durable. CLEANING Use soap (regular dish detergent works well) and water to clean natural stone. Some cleaners will break down the sealant that is used to protect your stone from staining. You may also use approved natural stone cleaners. Other cleaners may leave your stone hazy or cloudy. Countertop Care NATURAL STONE PROPERTIES The beauty of your countertop is created in nature as opposed to manufactured in a factory. Your slab may include some of the following qualities found naturally in stone:

Spills should be wiped up as soon as possible. Avoid using sealers on your countertop.

For daily cleaning, it is recommended to use a pH neutral cleaner specially designed for natural stone countertops. If you do not have a specialist cleaning product, warm water and a small amount of dish-washing detergent can be used. For more stubborn grime, marks, or ‘spring’ cleaning, use a safe, oxygen based, alkaline cleaner.

- NOTES - Acidic cleaners should never be used! Using coasters for drinks is recommended.

GRANITE Granite is a natural stone product and since it comes from “Mother Nature” per say, it has no warranty coverage for any type concerns. Natural stone will retain its beauty and integrity for years to come. There are several factors one must keep in mind when choosing natural stone. Remember that every slab is unique. Natural stone is a product of nature and therefore subject to inherent variations in color, veining, and dimensions. • Pitting and scratches are more noticeable when viewing countertop at an angle. Pitting is a natural part of stone. • Occlusions or beauty marks are a natural part of stone. • Fissures, dry veins, and hairline cracks are a part of many stones. • The fabricator and the design of your home designate d the location of any required seams , along with the placement and orientation of the granite in your home. • Because granite is a natural product, color variations are common and may differ from the sample. • Because of the size of your island your granite may have a seam per plan.

ADDRESS SEALING?

•

QUARTZ Quartz resists scratching, staining and scorching better than any other natural stone or solid surface. Excessive force or pressure may mark or chip the surface. • Avoid harsh chemicals. Spills from coffee, wine, lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, makeup, and many other common household products should be cleaned up promptly. • Use trivets when placing any hot items to avoid thermal shock. • For cleaning, we recommend you use a mild household cleaner. • In case of stubborn spills or stains, soak the area for up to 10 minutes with one of the above cleaners and vigorously wipe away with a non-scratch pad.

SOLID SURFACE Solid surface countertops are made of acrylic, marble dust, bauxite, epoxy or polyester resins and pigment. They are durable, easy to clean and seamless.

• No regular maintenance is required for solid surface countertops. • AVOID HARSH CHEMICALS. Remove nail polish using a non-acetone polish remover and then flush the countertops with water. • Solid surface countertops are resistant to heat, but we recommend using a barrier when setting anything hot on the countertops • For cleaning, we recommend using a damp microfiber cloth to wipe them down. For dirty or stained areas, use mild dish soap and water. Also acceptable are ammonia-based cleaners such as most glass or general purpose cleaners. Towel dry the surface to prevent water spots. • In the case of stubborn stains, matte finishes are easily cleaned with a baking soda and water paste.

aluminum oxide makes it resistant to dirt and dust. Regular vacuuming or sweeping is usually sufficient to keep the floor clean. A dry electro-static cleaner (e.g. Swiffer) also works very well. Flooring LAMINATE The melamine-impregnated surface with

- NOTE - A laminate floor is the closest thing there is to a “maintenance free” floor.

If needed, occasionally clean with a cloth or mop (micro-fiber or terrycloth-hooded) slightly moistened with a hardwood/laminate floor cleaner (‘no-rinse’ cleaner).

IMPORTANT TIPS: • Never flood the floor with water.

• Do not use soap-based detergents, as these may leave a dull finish on your floor. • Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool or scouring powder, as these may scratch your floor. • Never wax, polish, sand or lacquer a laminate floor. • Use doormats outside each entrance to your home to prevent dirt, sand, grit and other substances such as oil, asphalt, and driveway sealer from being tracked onto your floor. • For furnishings, use wide-bearing, non-staining floor protectors, such as clear, hard plastic or non-staining felt protectors, for heavy furnishings. • Promptly remove all liquid spills, including pet urine. CARPET Carpet cleaning is just like exercise! If you get into a routine and keep it up, you will see great results and feel better for it. And understanding the right way to clean carpet will help you save time by doing it correctly the first time with products that do the job right from the start. By following these steps and using a Seal of Approval products from the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI), not only will your carpet keep looking great, they can also help meet the warranty requirements of the carpet manufacturer. Below are three simple steps to keeping your carpet clean and looking great. 1. Vacuum at the right frequency with a CRI-approved vacuum. 2. Clean Spots and Spills Quickly with products that do not damage the carpet or cause it to re-soil quicker. 3. Professionally Deep Clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months to remove embedded dirt and grime.

RESILIENT & LUXURY VINYL PLANK (LV P ) • Sweep and vacuum regularly to remove dirt and grit that can abrade, dull or scratch your new floor. Do not use a vacuum with a beater brush, because it may damage the floors surface. • Wipe up spills promptly with a damp cloth or mop. • For a more thorough cleaning, wash your floor with a ‘no-rinse’ cleaner. • Remove excess water after washing the floor.

- CAUTION - Avoid one-step “mop and polish” products, dish-washing liquids and oil-based cleaners. These may leave a residue which can attract dirt and dull your floors finish. Avoid cleaners that contain abrasives or solvents which may permanently damage your floor.

CERAMIC/PORCELAIN

Sweep and Vacuum It’s important to sweep and vacuum a tile floor regularly. Dirt can adhere to the surface of tile, particularly styles with a textured surface. Regular sweeping and vacuuming loosens and removes most of this dirt. If a vacuum cleaner is used, be sure to use one without a beater bar to avoid dulling and scratching the tiles. Keep Dirt in Its Place Be sure to use walk-off mats to minimize and contain dirt being tracked in the entryways. Shake them often to remove dirt and soil. This reduces the amount of dirt being tracked across the tile floor, and reduces the wear to the finished surface. Cleaning Tips The floors should be regularly cleaned using a recommended ceramic/porcelain cleaner. For heavier soil, you can spot clean the floor with a sponge or clean cloth using the recommended cleaners. Rinse and Wipe Dry Textured tiles may require mild scrubbing with a soft brush or electric polisher/scrubber. After cleaning with a mild detergent rinse thoroughly with clean, warm water to help remove any leftover residue. If needed wipe dry with a clean towel to remove any film. For soft water residue situations you may need to use an all-purpose cleaner. Apply to the floor, let stand for 3-5 minutes, lightly scrub with a sponge, rinse well. For heavier cleaning tasks there are cleaning products available that can be used to remove soap scum, hard water deposits, and mildew stains. DON’TS Avoid using steel wool, scouring powders, or other abrasives that can scratch the finish of the tile. Do not use bleach or ammonia based cleaners, as these products can discolor your grout if used too often. Do not clean glazed tile with oil-based cleaners.

Flat Latex Paint Flat latex paint has been selected for your home because it is the ideal paint to use in a new home. It covers extremely well and does not show the taping seams as an enamel paint does. As your home settles and materials become acclimated, it is normal to develop nail and screw pops, and some drywall seams may become visible. Flat latex paint was selected due to its ability to touch up extremely well when compared to an enamel.

To learn more, see our video here!

CLEANING A SCUFF MARK ON THE WALL

ITEMS NEEDED: • Mild Liquid Detergent • Water • Clean Sponge

1. To assure durability benefits, wait at least two weeks before washing the dry paint film.Use solution of mild detergent and water to wash surface dirt and marks. 2. Thoroughly wet the sponge (DO NOT USE cotton rags, old shirts or abrasive cleansers, like Comet) and squeeze out the excess water. Leave enough soap and water in the sponge or washcloth to let the soap do the work. Dabbing at the dirt or mark and gently wiping will produce a more satisfactory effect than hard scrubbing. Hard scrubbing will result in a breakdown of the film, which may look worse than the original mark. 3. Allow the washed area to dry for 2 to 4 hours. 4. Walls may be touched up with the touch up paint that Pulte Homes provided, if the scuff cannot be removed by cleaning.

Humidity and Condensation in Your Home Older homes were built drafty. Moisture and dryness traveled evenly and directly through the exterior walls. It’s just the way homes were built back then. With time and progress, today’s builders construct a tighter home envelope. This change in home building brings about a new set of concerns, one of which is excessive humidity and the condensation it can cause. Humidity is measured in terms of percent and referred to as “relative humidity” or RH. Relative humidity is the combination or sum of all sources that produce or create moisture. Merely living and breathing in your home adds moisture to the air.

Some examples that naturally create moisture in a home are: • Bathing/Showering • Breathing • Cleaning /Laundry • Cooking • Plants, Pets, and Fish Tanks

This vapor mixes with the warm air being distributed throughout your home by your furnace making it feel warmer to your skin. Water vapor travels with the warm air and is naturally attracted to cool or cold surfaces. Some people find more moisture helps prevent shocks from static electricity. Being that interior humidity is directly related to the exterior temperature, you should be monitoring the RH level in your home. Simple gauges are sold in the thermometer sections of local stores that can take this measurement for you. Water vapor is invisible to the human eye, but its affects can be seen. Air circulation helps distribute the water vapor and lessens the opportunity for said vapor to stop, cling and collect causing condensation on windows. A constant use of a ceiling fan can create this air circulation for you. Also, keep blinds pulled up from window sills and ledges to allow the air to circulate at the window. Keeping blinds closed will cause condensation to collect on window sills or ledges and cause drywall damage. In addition, if condensation is not wiped away from the window sill or ledge mildew may form on the surface. Keep in mind, some window blinds may enhance the condensation factor. One of the higher culprits to this is the recess mounted “pleated” style blind due to the polymer coating it has. This helps trap the moisture against the cooler surface of the glass.

CONDENSATION Some people believe that condensation is considered the sign or indicator that the relative humidity is too high. They are correct! Science laws tell us vapor is naturally attracted to cold surfaces, so condensation is most likely found on the windows. Some believe the problem is the window, and not the humidity level. This is NOT true. Stop or reduce the vapor and the condensation effect goes away. The vapor

molecules are simply attracted to cold surfaces causing them to stop, cling and subsequently condensate. Those vapor molecules change form from a “gas” form to a “solid” when they cling & then condense. Pending the exterior temperature, sometimes frost and/or ice can collect. Therefore, it is not the window that is the problem, but the interior humidity.

DO’S • Wipe off condensation on windows to avoid mildew

DON’TS • Ignore signs of condensation • Keep blinds closed all day • Leave bath fans off during showers • Leave bathroom doors closed after showers

• Open blinds when not in use for privacy • Know pleated blinds have a polymer that traps moisture • Use bath fans before, during and after showers • Know excess humidity can make smoke detectors activate

What can I do to rid my windows of moisture? Make sure you are keeping the inside temperature warm all the time. Cutting back the thermostat at night or during the day actually aggravates the condition. Surfaces in contact with the cold outside air cool off even more during this cool down of the interior of the home causing the dew point to be reached at even lower relative humidity levels once the heat comes back on. Keep your furnace fan set to “auto” 24 hours a day. Circulation of the air inside the home promotes evaporation. This circulation helps carry moisture that may be on the windows off and circulate it through the home. If water sits or collects in the track at the bottom of the windows, it is possible that the “weep holes” at each comer are plugged. Use a pin or small screwdriver to clean them out.

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Information

There are smoke/CO detectors on each level and each bedroom. They are wired together so if one goes off they will all go off. Your smoke/CO detectors should be tested periodically by pushing the button on the smoke detector. The smoke/CO detector also has a battery back-up and the batteries should be changed twice a year.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU HAVE A NUISANCE OR FALSE ALARM

HOW TO TEMPORARILY SILENCE YOUR ALARMS The Hush® Feature of most alarms provides the capability of temporarily desensitizing the smoke alarm circuit for up to 8 minutes. This feature is to be used only when a known alarm condition, such as smoke from cooking, activates the alarm.

- WARNING - DO NOT USE THIS FEATURE IF A FIRE IS PRESENT. ONLY USE THIS FEATURE AFTER YOU HAVE CONFIRMED THERE IS NO FIRE DANGER PRESENT.

• For hardwired or wireless connected alarms, only hushing the initiating unit will silence all other interconnected alarms (see below to find the initiating unit). • The smoke alarm is desensitized by pushing the “Test/Hush” button on the smoke alarm cover. If the smoke is not too dense, the alarm will silence immediately. • The smoke alarm will automatically reset after approximately 8 minutes and sound the alarm if particles of combustion are still present. • The “Hush” feature can be used repeatedly until the air has been cleared of the condition causing the alarm. • Pushing the “Test/Hush” button on the alarm will end the hush period. HOW TO CLEAN AND RESET YOUR ALARMS If you have hardwired alarms, the first step is finding the initiating unit, as that is the key to stopping all of the interconnected units. • To find the initiating unit, look for one that is flashing RED at least once every second while in alarm mode, then follow the reset procedure below on that unit. • If the alarm stopped on its own before you could find that flashing light, please see the owner’s manual to see if the alarm model has an alarm memory to tell you which unit is initiating. • If there are no obvious signs of a fire, the alarm should be cleaned before being reinstalled. False alarms are most commonly caused by something interfering with the sensor. • To clean, after disconnecting the alarm and removing any removable battery: hold the unit on it’s edge and thoroughly vacuum out the gap between the front cover and the back plate all the way around the perimeter with the crevice tool attachment of the vacuum cleaner, or blow through the same gap with compressed air.

RESETTING A HARDWIRED UNIT WITH A REMOVABLE BATTERY BACKUP

1. Turn off the power to the smoke alarm at the circuit breaker. 2. Remove the smoke alarm from the mounting bracket and disconnect the power. 3. Remove the battery. 4. Press and hold the test button. 5. Reconnect the power and reinstall the battery. NOTE: The unit will chirp once when the power is restored and should not chirp afterwards.

RESETTING A REMOVABLE BATTERY-ONLY UNIT

1. Remove the battery (for a sealed-battery model, consult your user guide.) 2. Press and hold the test button. 3. Reinstall the battery. NOTE: The unit will chirp when the battery is first connected but should not chirp afterwards.

Exterior Concrete Residential exterior concrete (driveways, garage floors, sidewalks, porch decks, patio slabs, etc.) is a durable, functional, low maintenance product that will provide many years of service with minimum maintenance.

THINGS TO KNOW There are some important issues with concrete worth noting :

• As concrete cures it shrinks which often results in cracks. This is normal and not a sign of poor material or improper installation. • Concrete does deteriorate with time and is particularly susceptible to de-icing chemicals during the first year of service. If needed, use sand or kitty litter only. • Small pop outs in concrete are related to the aggregate composition and completely normal. • Due to North Texas expansive soils, it is common for your flat work to heave. Precautions have been taken at your lead walk and the at the garage apron to accommodate this heave and resulting conditions by pouring these areas slightly lower than your foundation. Over time, it is common to see them align more closely. • DON’T use de-icing chemicals (salt or calcium chloride) for snow and ice removal. Sand can be used for traction. • DON’T use fertilizers to control snow or ice. Many fertilizers contain chemically active ingredients that will attack and destroy concrete of any age. • DO keep concrete surfaces thoroughly cleaned, particularly during the winter months when water from melted snow .You can help protect your investment by keeping snow and ice shoveled from concrete surfaces including your garage floor.

Landscaping and Drainage

Due to regional variances in temperature and terrain, Pulte does not offer any warranty on landscaping and sod. Landscaping varies from region to region across the country and may vary from community to community within a city. The landscape package installed on your home site has been planned by professional landscape designers and in many cases is determined by city requirements. Trees, shrubs, sod, etc., are living things and as such are not warranted by Pulte Homes. Pulte’s responsibility is to provide healthy, living landscaping at the time of installation. Due to the natural shock of transplanting, it is critical that these items be constantly monitored and receive careful maintenance in the first year. Their survival and growth is solely dependent upon the care you give. If you are unsure how to properly maintain your landscaping, please call a professional for recommendations. Your home site is designed by professional engineers to provide drainage away from the foundation. Please do not alter the drainage pattern. Ground water travels away from the foundation and collects into swales that may be located along the sides of your yard, the rear of your yard, or both. It is normal for swales to remain wet longer than other areas of your yard.

IMPORTANT LANDSCAPING GUIDELINES

• Do not walk in the swales when they are wet as this may cause depressions that will hold water • Do not install fences, decks, patios, additions, etc., in such a way that creates a dam of the natural flow of ground water. • When you are adding additional landscaping always maintain a 6” separation between the dirt and the bottom of any siding or brick materials to prevent potential decay of the building materials or water intrusion into the homes through weep hole s . • Do not allow sprinklers to spray against wall, window, or door structures. Doing so may cause discoloration of exterior materials, deterioration of the building components, or interior flooding. • Please refer to the Pulte Warranty regarding specific grading and swale warranties concerning standing or ponding water.

Grading Information The yard area of your home has been graded according to an approved grading plan to drain water away from the foundation, allowing it to flow to the street, drainage swale or retention area. • Your yard or common grounds will be final graded with the existing soil that is on your lot. Final grading will include leveling the yard by dragging the soil to remove large rocks and debris. Small rocks do not create a problem for the installation of sod. An ample amount of watering, sun light and a staged seasonal fertilizing program will produce a beautiful lawn no matter what the soil conditions. • Do not f ill drainage swales. Do not place concrete patios or sidewalks in areas that block proper flow . Permanent structures (concrete slabs) should slope away from the home and follow the established contour of the yard grading. Slabs should be set to the proper elevation, below the top of the foundation. Slabs should not block the design drainage. If there are planting beds or irrigation systems installed it is important to be sure there is proper slope away from the foundation. Ensure adequate drainage, and no pooling of water at the foundation.

• Please refer to the Pulte Homes New Home Limited Warranty and Performance Standards for more details on this topic.

Taking Care of Your New Sod For your benefit we are providing you a maintenance guide for your new landscaping and sod. We hope that you will find the information beneficial. We will cover the basics of watering, pruning, and fertilizing of your trees, shrubs, and sod. The plants and sod that have been installed are alive and healthy. Without proper care the plants and sod can die. The absolute most common cause of death for trees and shrubs is over watering which results in a lack of oxygen causing the plants to drown. Please read through the following guidelines to ensure healthy establishment of your new lawn, trees, and shrubs. SEAMS ARE EXPECTED WHILE SOD IS GETTING ESTABLISHED The seams will be more severe if the sod is not receiving enough water. Over time all the pieces will grow together eliminating the previously visible seams.

- TIP - You’ll want to watch for areas that dry out first. Some spots in your lawn will show signs of drought stress first, use them as a guide to determine when you should water. These areas include: • Next to paved driveways, streets, walkways • Compacted areas (heavy foot traffic) • Slopes • Areas with buried gravel, wood or other materials The result of inadequate watering: • Off colored or yellow grass • Thinner grass, with weed invasion • Increased disease and insects • Increased damage from winter injury and other stresses

WATERING YOUR SOD For the first 10 days after your sod has been laid follow these watering guidelines based on your soil type:

WATERING YOUR SOD (continued) • During weeks 2-3, cut back the number of runs to once a day. • Week 4 run every other day. • The run times do not need to change, only the number of runs. • This schedule may need to be adjusted according to soil conditions and/or rainfall. ADDITIONAL TIPS • Make sure the sod remains moist but not soggy for at least the first couple of weeks. This will help ensure successful establishment of the new sod. • Do not mow new sod for at least 10 days to 2 weeks, but do not go longer than 2 weeks. • While your new sod is in an actively growing condition, keep mower heights of cut between 2.5” to 3” to encourage deeper rooting.

- TIP - The key to watering your lawn: • Water enough to soak the root system thoroughly • In most cases an inch to an inch and one-half (1 - 1 1/2”) is needed weekly To determine if you’re getting the right amount of water you can measure the amount of water by placing a can under the spray of water from your sprinkler.

ONCE YOUR SOD HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED

• During peak growing season the rule is to mow at least once a week, however, it is not uncommon to need to more frequently. • If there is a build up of clippings make sure to spread them out as this will help reduce water loss. • Do not mow when the grass is wet as this can cause the clippings to clump together and cause brown spots. • If your grass has been damaged by drought or if a mowing is missed and has over grown, raise the mowing deck up. Then 3-4 days later mow again at your normal setting. FERTILIZATION It is important to remember that fertilization is critical to a healthy lawn. Even though the soil contains some nutrients, there are not enough to maintain a healthy vigorous lawn. A typical lawn can be fertilized 3 to 5 times a season as long as the recommended rates (found in the directions on the bag) are followed. To assure a healthy, vigorous lawn apply approximately one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application.

The essential nutrients provided by fertilization are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

FERTILIZATION (continued) Nitrogen increases the growth rate of roots and shoots of the turf grass growth and development. It assures rapid establishment and stimulates root growth. A deficiency of phosphorous causes a reduction in the tiller shoot growth, and moisture content of the grass plant. The nutrient is required at much less of a rate than that of nitrogen and potassium. Potassium increases root development, particularly branching. It also improves heat, cold and drought hardiness as well as resistance to disease. A pre-emergent weed killer can be applied in the spring with the fertilizer to help prevent weeds. A post-emergent weed killer can be applied in the late spring for broadleaf weeds such as dandelions that are visible.

It is important to remember that with fertilization, too much can be harmful as not enough. Your local garden center can help you determine your lawn’s needs.

Taking Care of Your New Sod WATERING

- TIP - We cannot stress enough that over-watering is the #1 killer of trees and shrubs.

• Trees that are not under irrigation should be monitored and depending on rainfall should be watered approximately once per week. Once established, most trees do not need any additional watering, rainfall is generally enough.

• Shrubs not covered by irrigation (like shrubs close to foundation) need to be hand watered on an “as needed” basis. In a typical summer this would be 2 times per week. • Trees and shrubs covered by irrigation systems do not need to be manually watered but should be monitored on a once per week basis. FERTILIZING • Trees and shrubs were installed with a slow release fertilizer and will not need any additional fertilization the first year. After the first year you may want to apply a slow release fertilizer in the spring making sure to not over- or under-fertilize. ADDITIONAL TIPS • Pruning your trees and shrubs will not only make them more attractive, but if done properly will aid in their health and growth. Two trimmings per year are recommended, once in the spring and once in late fall. • There are certain species of trees and shrubs that can only be pruned in the late summer, fall, or winter. For example, oak trees must be pruned in the wintertime. Check your varieties before pruning. • Use the proper tools for pruning. For example, sharp hand shears, loppers and/or pruning saw. Hedge shears work very well for most shrubs. • Winter stress can damage your plants and even cause death. It is recommended to wrap all smooth-barked trees with tree wrap each fall until the tree is established. Make sure to remove tree wrap each spring or this could lead to other problems. • It is also recommended to protect south and west facing evergreens with burlap or other means that shield from winter burn. If winter burn occurs and is not too severe, pruning will often help the appearance and health of the plant. AND FINALLY We hope that you will find this information helpful and that you will have a healthy and beautiful lawn. Following are a few websites that may provide you with additional information:

www.scotts.com • www.ortho.com

OUR NEW LANDSCAPE INFO

Your yard is one of the first focal points of your new home. A great looking yard doesn’t happen overnight, and it doesn’t happen without a little TLC.

Irrigation If your home has been installed with an irrigation system, learning to operate the system can be intimidating at first. Please check with your FM or CCM for a thorough demonstration, or check the company’s website for details.

Become familiar with the sprinkler types in your yard – drip, sprays and rotors and the proper way to repair each. Drip lines can become soft in sun exposure and should be covered with mulch. While easy to repair, they are also easily damaged in flower beds with the use of a small spade shovel. Heads in the yard can be damaged by mowers and those located near driveways can be broken by errant edgers or vehicles. Over time, adjustments to spray patterns may need to be made and drip filters can be cleaned. Learn how you can turn off your system at the double check valve.

Programming Be wary of multiple programs during watering days. Each of 3 programs (A, B, C) can run 4 times per day. The Rainbird ESP-TM2 controller manual can be found at https://ww3.rainbird.com/documents/turf/ man_ESP ‐ TM2_en.pdf or by clicking on the attached QR code.

Programming The Rainbird may also have a WiFi link that enables your system to be controlled from your phone, tablet, or Amazon device. You can find support for this feature at https://wifi.rainbird.com/.

Below please find a recommended watering schedule for your new lawn. Keep in mind these are guidelines, and you should adjust according to seasons and how your lawn is reacting, as well as considering municipal guidelines and restrictions. Overwatering can be detrimental to trees, landscaping, and your lot’s drainage as well as expensive! Encourage deep roots on your sod to grow by fewer, deeper watering routines. It is likely your home had an intense watering schedule as you moved into your new home to help establish your new sod. This schedule will typically need to be dialed back a couple weeks after you move in.

Keep in mind it is just as important to water your home’s foundation in the winter as it is in the summer. Consistent watering is key to your foundation’s stability in Texas soils.

Sod

Your new home has Bermuda TIF-419 sod installed. This drought-resistant sod is considered one of the highest quality turfgrasses available, thrives in full sun and is heat tolerant with dense growth. Although dormant in winter, the root growth is still active. This sod has been grown on special sod farms and is weed free. However, it is possible for weeds to be spread from neighboring areas and the original ground conditions through wind, birds, and other natural means. Therefore, weed treatments can be used at discretion as your new sod is well established.

Fertilization

It is equally important to provide food for your lawn in the form of fertilizer to achieve a thick, green, weed-free lawn. Multiple feedings a year help a lawn thrive and choke out weeds.

In order to properly maintain your sod, be sure to mow regularly. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf area with any one mowing. This can cause stress, yellowing, and weaken the grass, making it susceptible to disease, fungus and insects. Keep in mind that if your goal is a golf course fairway type yard, grass needs to be mowed, watered and fertilized even more frequently.

Each mowing should be completed in a different direction from the last mowing to avoid ruts. These ruts can also contribute to inefficient yard drainage. Consistent mowing promotes good growth habits.

Soil Movement

As part of the Blackland Prairie soil region, DFW is notorious for moving, highly expansive clay soils. These soils expansive soils are one of the reasons it is so important to keep your foundation evenly watered to help minimize movement. If soils in this region move enough to lift homes, it’s easy to see how they can cause ruts, lumps, and uneven territory in your yard. It will be impossible to keep a level yard without top- dressing with sand or a compost/soil mixture routinely. In heavy rain seasons or after watering, try to minimize mowing and foot traffic since such activities across a wet yard will leave holes and ruts.

Trees The landscaping and trees provided for your home have been chosen for their inherent durability to North Texas soils and weather conditions. Despite the hot weather, 95% of tree replacements come from over-watering as opposed to lack of water. To keep yourself from incurring this expense, be sure to water and fertilize trees appropriately.

Water and Fertilizer

Newly planted trees require roughly ten gallons per caliper inch per week during the hottest times of the year. This means a 4” caliper tree needs about 40 gallons a week in August. If your trees have a drip irrigation system in place, this means 3 days per week (M/W/F), one time a day, for 45 minutes each is sufficient. Be sure to keep the root ball moist, not over-saturated. You can easily check this by inserting a tree rod or metal stick about two feet into the ground close to the roots. If you can’t get the rod to push into the soil, it’s too dry. If you pull it out and it has muddy clay sticking to it, then the tree is getting too much water. Your tree also needs regular fertilization. Tree stakes are a slow release option and should be used 1-2 times per year, while liquid fertilizer provides a quick release and should be used 3-4 times per year. Trees that are yellowing (not from Autumn), are generally lacking in iron and need to be fed.

Root Flare

The root flare is an important part of the tree. This is the area of the trunk at the base of the tree where the trunk flares out to the roots. It is important not to cover this flare with soil or mulch, as it is the gas-exchange point for the tree. Covering this area can suffocate the tree and/or rot the bark at the base of the tree, leaving it susceptible to disease and snapping. This is why you will commonly see mulch rings with a donut-type hole in the center to allow the flare to breathe. In order for trees to grow larger, lower and inner branches must be trimmed annually. The best time of year to trim is in cooler months. Consult a professional for best results.

Tree Edging

For the health of the tree, it is best not to use stone or brick edging around the tree. These can cause the following:

• • • • •

A bowl that could flood and drown the tree

Increases weight on roots

Added soil covers the root flare which suffocates the tree

Roots start to circle the tree causing girdling

The tree’s growing roots will cause the edging to lift and break.

If you desire stone around your tree, try a dry stack version without mortar that is only one brick or stone high so that it doesn’t cause damage and can be adjusted as the tree grows.

Drainage

Your lot has been designed with grading and swales to divert water away from the foundation of your home. Be sure not to modify these areas with additional grading, plantings, concrete, or other obstructions to impede water flow. As noted above, foot traffic, rolling trash containers, pets, mowing the sides of your yard, etc. during wet conditions can cause ruts that impede lot drainage. Swales are designed to remove standing water within a 48 hour period, but muddy conditions can remain for longer. These conditions may be more prevalent in areas with little sun exposure, so additional care should be taken.

To learn more about caring for your landscaping, see our video here!

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